No extra drivers on the board anyway, so a moot point given my self-imposed constraint. I’m an adherent to the Mark Rehorst “If you design it right, it stays tram” school of design. With the gantry raised to max Z, front and back: Here are some pictures, including animated gifs, to show what it looks like:įirst, an animation of all three axes moving simultaneously: I do have parts on hand to make that work though I might choose a different design that requires ordering a couple more parts. Has anyone here seen a gantry printer with this design? I haven’t seen this “inverted T” single-screw gantry printer approach before. It is designed to enable an enclosure that is at the top of the fixed gantry the lead screw and pillar of the inverted T would go through and stick out the top that’s why the Z motor is mounted on top instead of below the Z gantry plate. I used one motor per axis, with no need to transfer synchronized motion. I tried to avoid an overconstrained design. I haven’t modeled many of the parts extruder, bearings, pulleys, idlers, belts, drag chain, wires, fans, or electronics in general I just know where those go, at least where it matters, and am now pretty confident it can work. hot end, bearings, ball screw and nut) just barely enough to be confident of size and fit. I’ve only roughed out most of the hardware (e.g.

I’ve been messing around in OpenSCAD for the design, so I don’t have a STEP or IGES file. (I think: I haven’t measured to make sure I have all the necessary lengths of extrusion but there’s enough flexibility in the design that I’m pretty sure I can make it work anyway.) I’ve come up with a design I can build with buying only a small 100 tooth GT2 belt everything else is sitting around the house.

From another project, I have an extra 330mm 1204 ball screw. I became curious: Could I, with leftovers and excess stock sitting around the house from other projects, together with parts from the existing gantry printer, make a substantially better gantry printer? From the previous rebuild, I have a couple of 450mm MGN12 clone (“chiwin”) rails that work.

In particular, it’s now working better in every respect than my junk gantry hictop printer that got me into this 3d printing world in the first place.īut when it comes to printing emergency protective gear, could I do more, faster? I’m at home because pandemic (I am very grateful that I am working from home!) and I just got my corexy build starting to work well.

T slot 3d printer single arm